Marc Jacobs has gone to the dark side. The famed designer has scored some famous faces for his Fall ’16 ad campaign, and these models definitely have an edge. According to Time, Jacobs has signed Kendall Jenner and hard rockers Marilyn Manson and Courtney Love as the faces for his eerie, Goth-inspired fall fashion collection.
Marc Jacobs posted pics of his famous muses to Instagram. In his caption under Jenner’s image, he described the reality star as a “supermodel” with an incredible work ethic. Kendall’s first fashion show for Marc Jacobs was in Fall 2014, and she has been a part of every Jacobs show since.
KENDALL, Supermodel I will always remember the first time I met Kendall during castings for our Fall 2014 fashion show. Katie Grand invited her to come by the studio for a brief introduction before she was photographed for the model boards. At the time, I knew very little about Kendall… As history now has it, her very first fashion show was for Marc Jacobs Fall 2014. Kendall has since been a part of every show along with being featured in our Spring ’15 ad campaign (also shot by David Sims). It goes without saying that Kendall has gone on to establish an incredible career for herself and every bit of it is a testament to her hard work, passion and desire. During castings for Fall ’16, due to the enormous height of the boots we designed, we had to make certain that each girl was able to walk (and walk safely). Kendall slid those boots on and walked around the studio as if she was in a pair of running shoes: statuesque, confident and just as enthusiastic and excited to be doing the show as if it was her first one. For me, it is the ability of a model to effortlessly transform into a look and character that makes her so appealing and inspiring. Photographed by David Sims for our Fall ’16 ad as a Goth Goddess is the sweet, kind and ultimate professional, Kendall Jenner.
While Marc has had a great working relationship with Kendall Jenner for more than two years, he has known Marilyn Manson for more than two decades. In his Instagram post about the rock star, Jacobs revealed he met Manson at a Halloween party in 1996, shortly after his album Antichrist Superstar was released.
“It was after meeting him that I started listening to his music, in large part because I was intrigued by his persona and curious about his perverse and incredible intellect,” Jacobs wrote.
Marc Jacobs used Manson’s anthem “The Beautiful People” for his Fall 2011 runway show, but now he’s using the man himself.
MANSON, Brains and Beauty Ironically, I met Marilyn Manson on Halloween in Los Angeles shortly after the release of his album, Antichrist Superstar in 1996. It was after meeting him that I started listening to his music- in large part because I was intrigued by his persona and curious about his perverse and incredible intellect. The Beautiful People and its accompanying music video with all its gorgeous grotesqueries is what sweet dreams are NOT made of… The incredibly powerful and frenetic pace of the video with the attenuated and elongated Manson pulled, disfigured and contorted by means of surgical devices, dental apparatuses and other contraptions is absolutely nightmare inducing and an outrageously captivating attraction of repulsion. For our Fall 2011 fashion show, there was no better song to send the girls marching down our boudoir comme insane-asylum runway than, The Beautiful People. It was the perfectly twisted companion for that collection which played at a volume that nearly shook the walls down. In direct contrast to the outward hideous beauty of Manson’s stage persona is his instinctive, inherent intelligence and understanding of what matters. These days more so than ever I am reminded of Manson’s interview in the documentary film, Bowling for Columbine and his response to a question asking what he would say to the kids and Columbine community in the wake of the tragedy that took place in 1999. His response was, “I wouldn’t say a single word to them. I would listen to what they have to say, and that’s what no one did.” Sometimes knowing when to listen is more important than being heard, and in one sentence Manson left a stronger impression on me than his music ever had previously. Marilyn Manson photographed by David Sims for our Fall 2016 ad campaign.
Marc Jacobs also had kind words for Courtney Love, describing the widow of Kurt Cobain as a “grunge goddess” and crediting her ’90s style as a great influence on his famous “grunge collection” show when he was creative director at Perry Ellis back in 1992. Jacobs described Love’s messier early ’90s look to today’s “kinder-whore Courtney.”
COURTNEY, R(evolution) With my abundance of respect for Courtney Love’s musical contributions to grunge/rock culture and her status as this sort of, Grunge Goddess, it was her mesmerizing and extraordinarily moving portrayal of Althea in the film, The People vs Larry Flynt that simultaneously broke my heart and won my love. While I hadn’t yet met Courtney during my time as Creative Director at Perry Ellis, it was her then style that had a great influence on that now infamous “grunge collection” show in 1992. Courtney and I (and a then 2 or 3 year old Frances Bean) first met at dinner with Anna Sui in 1994 at Bar Six in NYC. I remember being quite taken by her deep, thorough knowledge of and voracious appetite for fashion and music. There has always been a genuine allure about Courtney that I continue to admire. The way she’d scream her lyrics from that gash of a red mouth to the hard rocking, wailing sounds of Hole. She was then and remains now, for me, the ultimate divine mess in a dress. Gone but no where near forgotten is the girl-woman Goddess of Grunge in her too small tattered dresses, the little girl barrette in her messy, scattered hair and beaten up brocade 1960’s evening shoes. It’s a long distance from the now iconic kinder-whore Courtney photographed by Juergen Teller for I-D magazine in 1994 to the movie star glamour of the powerfully aloof and infinitely present Courtney, photographed here by David Sims for our Fall ’16 campaign.
Marc Jacobs’ Fall ‘ 16 campaign is definitely star-studded. In addition to the aforementioned names, he has cast rapper Missy Elliott, actress Cara Delevingne, and ’70s Carrie star Sissy Spacek in his fall 2016 ads.
While the Goth outfits are the centerpiece for the ads, Jacobs’ behind-the-scenes staff put the finishing touches on the Goth models. According to the beauty website Into the Gloss, Jacobs’ employs gig name makeup artists like François Nars and Jin Soon for some of his runway shows. Nars noted that inspiration for this season’s looks come from singers like Alice Cooper and underground New York performers.
“Some have dark eyes with very strong liner and no lips,” Francois said of Jacobs’ models. “Not much foundation, a little bit shiny and not like a cosmetic look. We like to be away from anything that’s too perfect, like foundation and lipstick. All the eyebrows are gone because it gives a much blanker canvas so you can really restructure the whole face and you can make the eyelid really big… it just changes the whole face.”
KEMBRA, Femininity While I had been aware of Kembra Pfahler's unique voice and vision during the East Village scene in the 1980’s, it was when her band, The Voluptuous Horror of Karen Black (that name alone!) released their album, The Anti Naturalist, in 1995 when I found myself completely enamored with and curiously drawn to Kembra. Those curiosities lead me to my first TVHOKB performance. Not knowing what to anticipate, Kembra took the stage (set with giant ladybug-like cutouts) in her bow-festooned raven black, teased-to-there hair, naked-painted-red body dressed in nothing but black panties and dominatrix like stiletto boots rocking out with a magnificently raw and punk energy to songs like Spelling Bee, Gotta Get My Eyes Done and my all time favorite, Honky Tonk Biscuit Queen. Making the best use of what's available or AVAILABILISM as Kembra refers to it, has always been her approach to performing art. This low-tech performance/concert was the most brilliantly raw, twisted punk-rock-of-a-school-play I have ever witnessed and Kembra, a deconstruction of cliché femininity was rooted in such purity and innocence. Portrayed here as a Fetish High Priestess by David Sims for our Fall 2016 campaign, the intensely stunning and provocative Kembra Pfahler.
Goth nails gotta be black, so Jin Soon explained the secret to that look, courtesy of Marc Jacobs brand polish.
“It’s called Blacquer,” Soon said. “Marc really likes to have it super shiny, so on top of this black color, we are using a high shine top coat called Shiny. It’s about Goth looks from all different periods, so we tried to do a more sophisticated spin on this. The good thing about this color is that it has super great pigment, which means it covers really well with one coat. And Marc specifically told me on the test, ‘Jin! Short nails, short nails!’ Because you don’t want to have dagger nails with this one, otherwise it becomes too much, so short nails and high shine will make you more sophisticated.”
While he now has his Goth posse in place, this is not the first time Marc Jacobs has scoured Hollywood for his models. In addition to his frequent use of Kris and Caitlyn Jenner’s daughter, Jacobs’ past star-studded campaigns have included stars such as Bette Midler, Adriana Lima, Cher, Sofia Coppola, Willow Smith, and Winona Ryder, according to Harper’s Bazaar.
Take a look at the video below for more on Marc Jacobs’ Fall 2016 show.
[Photo by Slaven Vlasic/Getty Images]